Yaesu ft 102 amp hook up. Solved: yaesu ft no recieve - fixya
Dirty contact on RL, the clarifier relay. Arrange your replacement illumination. RL01 on PB of the FT is for all practical purposes worthless, if it becomes intermittent or problematic just get rid of it or by pass it. Read all the mentioned other FT relay replacement websites, I might have missed some things, and it is good to have a second view on complexe topics and then take to the task or find someone who does it for you.
I was at this for about 4 hours.
Things I would like to have done if I only had known before...
I removed it from my transceiver and the rig is all the more reliable. Besides screws in all corners there is a 'hidden screw' it took me quite some time to discover. It is not possible to use any old bulb here as most will give several dBs attenuation. Now the Relay Unit PCB is loose but we don't get it out as there are two quite short wires soldered to it reaching thru the mid chassis base plate.
Careful alignment of the VCOs is essential. I had one case where the user had connected the PA screen grid supply to a higher voltage on the rectifier unit, causing this problem.
The main aerial changeover relay on pcb in the top PA compartment has been known to burn out. The 2 meters have their own sub-chassis. A final look on the board and the substitute relay for the odd RL02 made me back out from the idea of replacing that one.
Yaesu ft102 no recieve - Radio Communications
This screw fastens hollywood u app dating small PCB's upside. This marks end of day one. And what did I see But as Yaesu ft 102 amp hook up knew that with time the relay issue would but grow and finally it had to be done Check for physical short circuits around the band switch in the PA compartment.
See Yaesu mod sheet to prevent further failure. It was a necessary step though. The other sign of worn relays which is mentioned unisono: So I replaced RL03 and RL04 while the board was still mounted, then tried oxide removal spray on the rest, trying to back out from replacing the others The screwdrivers tip is pointing right at the solder point for you to know were to resolder it And also the space towards the tubes ad all is too small to get the PL-bushing back in far enough.
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Actually I had much respect opening the case of the FT at all. A very early model so. The screwdriver is engaged on it here. Now there are relays easy to replace in the FT The screwdriver is pointing right at it.
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This seems to be the dawn of when the relay issues are becoming serious I think. Replaced RL05 for which the front Pertinax beam of the bandswitch ensamble has to be removed because even if one gets the original RL05 out, the replacement relay is not going to fit in as it is a few millimeters higher.
Do not fool around with High Voltage. So here is my experinece as far as I went. Collectors of this Yaesu benchmark: I have twice seen cases where it has overheated, melting the solder on its leads, causing a physical short circuit.
The front plate looked like it had been involved in a traffic exident but the price was alright. Really easy going, you not even need to come close to a soldering iron for changing this pair.
So why have an FT then? See all the filter coils?
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Call me a Sissi but this gamble isn't for me. Follow me on my journey through the FTs relays. And then there is what these words of caution are about: Check driver valve after replacing this.
You do not even need to swing the soldering iron for that. Its lead needs to be cut in order to move the chassis plate off far enough to get the PL-bushing out Now unscrew the chassis rear plate and bull back on PA cage side by approx.
Which would be much work since it holds the 3 PA tubes sockets and all. Which is held by two screws accessible from the upper side after the top cover is lifted Read the Cautions on top of page before lifting the cover!
Bottom view on the opened FT View this photo enlarged Attenzione! I have once had burnt out tags on the bandchange switch - this was impossible to see before I removed the switch.
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This FT's serial no. This can sometimes be a problem if 2 or 3 different types of valves are used in the PA. So please take some advice: Either do the operation while the board is still mounted inside the FT Though I did not go all the way replacing the relays I am hoping to provide some useful information how to refurbish the great FT The couple of occassions that this has been a problem I have usually improved it by cleaning and relubricating the mechanism.
Suspect the relays on the RF pcb around the RF amp.
Amp hook up to a Yaesu FTB
Note that some of the relays are 24v types and not the more usual 12v. But luckily the Pertinax brigde does not need to be modified. Now pull back the chassis rear plate steadily.
This marks end of day three including a Meter Lamp replacement. Some of the earlier models suffered from key clicks on CW.